Posted by KwickLabs on 05-26-2004 08:04 AM:
I could,
but if you are a bow hunter and know what an inexpensive Truefire Patriot bow
trigger is, it is too simple. Tested to 200 pounds "pull", the trigger release
works with a slight tug from the wire leader material connected to the
electronics.
All materials were bought from Menards, Farm & Fleet and Gander Mountain with
the exception of the electronics. Those can be found with a simple search on the
Internet. Do a Google search for "automatic door controllers". From the looks of
the recent Air Launch King (right name?) advertisement in my HRC magazine, their
transmitter has a very striking similarity.
Big Dog I, took measurements this morning: drake mallard - 15 yards, Dokken
mallard - 23 yards and 2" dummy - 30 yards (the duck trajectory is about as good
as the best throw my 15 year old grandson can do). This is at the maximum
stretch on this small, 36" tall winger (actually, it only comes up to my waist
when set-up). It would be simple to modify the height of the design (a little)
for "bigger rubber", but my Sonoma is the limiting factor.
Posted by wdlfbio on 05-26-2004 11:20 AM:
Aw heck
Jim. Give them the name of the electronics company. I'm done doing the remote
launchers deal and I totally understand your not wanting to fabricate these
things for others. It's a pain in the butt when you work hard to save others $$$
and they whine and nag about things, treat the equipment poorly, and blame
you!!!!
I noticed the Air Launch King stuff too. It's gotta be the same company.
Anyway, how about sending my a couple up close pics? I've been wanting to make
some remote wingers to go along with the bumper launchers I've made. We have 2
ad 3 launcher models, but they're based on the retrieve-r-trainer, which doesn't
work well if the primers get damp (read as, can be problematic in western WA).
So, I need something to toss marks the "few" times we're training in the rain
Have you changed the remote, or are you regularly getting 300 yards with the FMT?
They have an 8-channel, it's a little bigger, and different frequency, but it
might be easier than the primer thing.
1 8-channel remote
3 2-channel receivers
3 mini-sirens
and you're in business
Channel 1=siren1
Channel 2=winger 1
Channel 3=siren 2
Chanel 4=winger 2
Channel 5=siren 3
Channel 6=winger 3
And you have two channels left for the upland launchers.
You can use the siren until the dawg swings over, then fire the winger.
Posted by MindTrikCallr on 05-26-2004 08:57 PM:
Are you
using a small motor actuated by the receiver to pull the wire leader...
Yes.
Posted by achiro on 05-26-2004 09:44 PM:
How long have you been using them? Does it
look like they are gonna last? They look awesome btw.
Posted by KwickLabs on 05-26-2004 11:39 PM:
Bill, I
don't remember bringing one to the APLA test, but check171 I did bring something
to Evan's seminar last year. That one was nothing like these (it was too big).
Used it many times, but it is now gathering dust in the garage.
The electronics are the same though. They've been mounted on bird launcher boxes
plus various winger prototypes and just keep working.
Got all the PM's cleaned up. However, specific questions are never an easy
process when questions and answers are separated by hours and days. Check the
bottom of the opening page of my Website on Friday for close-up pictures. There
is no blueprint of the design and I couldn't tell you any measurements other
than the height an width of the winger folded-up. It was originally "sculpted"
around the space needed for the pouch with clearance for the pulleys. PVC is
cheap and easy to cut. None of the pieces, corners or cylinders were "cemented"
until it was the right design and fit. If I didn't like the way it was balanced
or sized slap another piece in. Then you just cut parts for a set of three.
It is best to make it in three sections...the square top, the main support side
including the base and the leg side. The square top is cemented to the base side
and pops "on and off" the leg side. The hardest part of the construction is
avoiding skewed sections as the cement sets up very quickly. You assemble the
PVC frames and then begin "hanging the hardware" using eye bolts and rings.
Zip-ties are great little devices!
Posted by KwickLabs on 05-27-2004 03:16 AM:
Maxx,
Funny you say that. There were many times I'd be sitting with my eyes closed
trying to "visualize" some part of the design and how to make it work. And your
comment about being able to "tinker" as you build something is critical in
trying to put something like this together. I don't have a blueprint or parts
list. Ingenuity is a necessity!
This new design was given a big push when I saw the "bow trigger release" on a
friend's winger. It's only the good ideas that get copied.
Posted by wdlfbio on 05-27-2004 07:40 PM:
Kwick has
one of my first sets of electronics. His remote is still a 4 channel, which is a
little different than the 8 channel you have. You might find the name by pulling
the remote apart (make ya work a little bit more )
Posted by KwickLabs on 05-28-2004 12:30 AM:
Here
are several structure keys to be aware of plus some useful tips.
1) there are two 1" sleeves on the square top, make them just fit with enough
space at the ends to allow for the zip-ties holding the pulleys
2) one sleeve is cemented to the frame legs, the other is not (fold up
capability)
3) across the base, only the center two T's are cemented, the rest are just
inserted and float free for folding or leg adjustments
4) the uprights are cemented in their respective base T's
5) the zip-ties on the base keep the "outside" clamped to the "inside"
6) the triangle leg support has a 1" free floating sleeve and a poly rope for
stability
7) use rings on the rubber bands that are a little larger than the eyebolts they
hook over
8) once you get rolling on this, assembly line techniques are best
9) pouch 14" square
10) bands 23"
11) rings inside 1"
12) eyebolts outside slightly less than 1"
13) cut the supports that "unplug" 2 inches longer to make folding easier (they
won't swing through the frame) & create a better angle for launching (these are
the supports that have the H-cross and leg)
14) Mini-My Wingers are fun to make and PVC mistakes are easy to correct (except
for cementing)
Work on a flat surface and push tubing in using the surface to maintain
alignment. As you assemble, use plenty of cement to slow the hardening. Assemble
the three main parts separately and when each part is finished (and the total
frame) immediately place it against a flat surface and torque to straighten and
flatten.
And since Wdlfbio gave me the "high sign", I use the FMR 212-E, FMT 304 and ANTW
(or the antenna upgrade) from Elsema
http://www.multicode.com.au/index.html
(includes prices)
Posted by wdlfbio on 05-28-2004 01:32 AM:
www.elsema.com
They also
have 8 and 16 channel remotes. Be careful though. The shipping gets VERY
expensive.
Remote goes to receiver, receiver has 12Vdc battery in and relays out (1 to 4
per receiver).
Each relay on the receiver is separate and is controlled by 1 button on the
remote. So, if you have a 4 channel (button) remote, you can only operate 4
thingies. That is, 1 4-channel receiver, 2 2-channel receivers, or 4 1-channel
receivers.
The relay goes to a simple car power door lock actuator. Hooking it up one way
pushes, hooking the other way pulls. We use the pull function. The door lock
gets wired to the mechanical release. Simple as pie.
To consider. Some of the remotes are weatherproof, some are not. None of the
receivers are, so you'll need to silicone the heck out of them.
The FMT series only goes to 4-channel remotes, but has the best range. The
Gigahertz series have 8 and 16-channel, but less range, 100-125 if you use a
tall antenna.
Posted by dixidawg on 05-28-2004 07:25 AM:
Another question?
With 1 FMT304 transmitter, I can control up to 4 FMR212e'S For example 2 bird
launchers, and 2 "Mini-My" launchers? Do you need a separate battery for
the receiver? What powers the receiver and door-lock actuator?
Thanks,
Bob
Posted by KwickLabs on 05-28-2004 08:34 AM:
receiver -
rechargeable12 volt, 1.3A/20hr, 2"X2"X3" (approx) cell
transmitter - common 9 volt battery
"With 1 FMT304 transmitter, I can control up to 4 FMR212e'S For example 2 bird
launchers, and 2 "Mini-My" launchers?" YES
The electronics link above (multicode- Elsema online) will download technical
data including electrical wiring diagrams.
chclltbzb, Don't give up on yourself too quickly. Patriot Truefire Trigger Bow
Release and wire leader material (Gander Mountain/Archery shops) plus a common
car door actuator are not that intimidating. Really!
The hardest part of doing something is getting started and it requires personal
"can do" initiative. If your dog shows a "lack of effort", he gets corrected.
Right?
Posted by achiro on 05-28-2004 05:08 PM:
I can't
tell you how much this is appreciated! I've been in the market but man what a
money saver this is gonna be!
One question, how hard is it to pull the pouch down and "load" it into the
release?
Posted by KwickLabs on 05-28-2004 05:48 PM:
You have
to buy plenty of bananas and force train a full grown
gorilla......."reload-nick-reload"!
But actually, since the 23" long bands (less the length necessary to tie the
rings on) are detached from the "cocked" position, you only have to move the
loop four inches to the trigger. However, when cocked, this means the elongated
bands are a bit over 200%. My fourteen year old grandson has no trouble "arming"
them.
As for where to get the pouch and bands, there are Internet dog training supply
sites that sell them. There have been a few threads (do a search) which have
discussed the industrial sources of these latex rubber bands. The ones I am
using are black with an inside diameter of 1/8" and a wall thickness of 3/16"
which add up to a 1/2" diameter.
Posted by KwickLabs on 05-29-2004 12:04 AM:
For three
of four years, I thought wingers were the key to my training alone. However, I
have a very nice three year old that focuses, marks very well, is driven to
retrieve and rarely needs any help. Wingers seem to work very well in her
training.
Now I'm using them quite a bit with my pup. And wouldn't you know it, about
three or four weeks ago there was a thread where several top trainers were
questioning the use of wingers on young dogs. Since my pup is 6+ months old I
was concerned.
The general consensus (liberal summary) was that wingers are not necessarily the
best tool for a young dog learning how to mark. There is nothing more
frustrating then sending a pup for a mark and finding out it was too much. With
no gunner/BB to get his attention for the throw or keep him in area of the fall,
the critical routine of marking can be compromised. Wingers are neat, high tech
and make training alone more plausible, but you should be aware of this
downside. Use them wisely.
Posted by KwickLabs on 06-01-2004 08:40 AM:
Other
solenoids. The ones I looked at are smaller, more expensive and have a
very short "pull" stroke. The car door actuators have a long "pull" stroke which
is much more forgiving in the wire hookup adjustments to the trigger. You can
cock the trigger and still have some slack to play with. The need to fine tune
is something to avoid in the field.
By the way, drill a small hole in the end of the bow trigger to accommodate the
wire. The plastic triggers are surprisingly difficult to drill through (strong
stuff).
I may forget the 209 primer shot deal and go with a cheap ($10)
12 volt motorcycle horn wired in parallel. First push of transmitter sounds horn
and launches.....second quick push sounds horn again. (Only an idea for
now.......not sure the circuit will be able to handle both.)
posted by KwickLabs on 06-01-2004 03:31 PM:
Eureka!
The cheap $10 horn works fine. One honk on the release and another (as quick as
you can push the button again) gives a sound at the top of the arc.
Sound for ten bucks.
Wire in parallel (that means hook the two horn wires to the same two contacts as
the car door actuator).
Posted by wood_duckhunter on 06-01-2004 04:20 PM:
Jemmray,
these are some good solenoids to use...
HERE
Orion Dog Supply has good parts to help out also.
Posted by wdlfbio on 06-01-2004 05:04 PM:
You guys
must earn lots more money than me. Here's the rest of my secrets...
Get your other launcher parts at
www.allelectronics.com
Ya gotta watch out though, sometimes they run out of parts, so order enough
ahead of time.
If ya need more help than that, it'll cost ya
Posted by wdlfbio on 06-01-2004 06:37 PM:
you'll
need
1 12 Vdc wall adapter (for charging the receiver battery)
1 12 Vdc 1.2 amp hour battery (they may/may not have in stock)
1 male and female 2-pin connector (male goes right to battery, female is on the
charger
1 small rocker switch (to use for turning on and off (if you leave the battery
connected, it will be dead overnight)
1 door lock actuator (this is what actually pulls the trigger, green wire is +,
blue is -)
The FMT304 is NOT waterproof, so put it in a zip lock bag if you'll be using it
in the rain or snow.
Also, if you're using the FMR212 with the black UBB case, it is not waterproof
either. I pull the case apart and silicone the sides when I screw it back
together. I then silicone the screws. After all the connections are made, I take
under car rubberizer and spray them so that area is waterproof too. Now, hope
like hell you don't have to take the receiver apart again
Posted by wdlfbio on 06-01-2004 06:39 PM:
Hey Kwick...
Do you
think any of this is worth a hunting invitation?
Posted by KwickLabs on 06-01-2004 11:37 PM:
First
time I ordered the money conversion thing was a bit confusing and there were
some concerns, but there have never been any mistakes in the final US dollar
billing. Shipping has always been under $30 US. My second order, I was amazed
with a five day delivery and communications are prompt.
Some of the modifications that have been mentioned include parts that are 6
volts. The receivers I'm using are 12 volts and the power is excellent.
I would give anything (well not really) to see all the wingers that are made
because of this thread. Anybody close? My bet is that in the long run the top
winger producers won't see much of a dent made in their business. Mostly because
the guys making them could ill afford to buy some in the first place.
$2500 plus shipping for one Rotary Air Launch King 16 for two dogs and my wife
would..............yikes! ......never mind.
Posted by wdlfbio on 06-02-2004 12:36 AM:
You could use RC servos, but
you'll pay more for those parts. The parts I discussed have been tried and
proved by lots of us. The door lock actuators are VERY strong. The batteries
LAST. The prices are as inexpensive as I have been able to find, and I've been
looking for over 3 years.
What I did when I was making launchers for friends and other trainers was to
order parts for 3-4 guys at a time and divide the shipping between everyone.
Maybe a few of you who are local to one-another should consider that.
Another source for parts is
www.meci.com
They apparently have a distributor in WA, but I have not been able to get them
to contact me back???? I have had ZERO problems from Richard or Shelley. I have
also spoken with their techs and been very pleased with their service and help.
I told you shipping could be a bit high, but you will have the parts way before
you get your first winger built. And, you're still saving tons of cash by doing
it yourself!!!!!!!
Posted by Dman on 06-02-2004 05:17 PM:
wood_duckhunter,
I think this is the site BLKLAB is talking about
http://www.applied-wireless.com/
Posted by BLKLAB on 06-05-2004 01:24 PM:
OK I
ended up buying the Elesema stuff rather than the Air Launch King. I figure it
is the same or very similar to the Elsema. I found waterproof boxes for under
$8.00. My question KwickLab, Will the stuff include wiring diagrams.
Posted by KwickLabs on 06-05-2004 02:50 PM:
Yes, on the
label of the receiver. Another more detailed wiring diagram can be found
Posted by Dman on 06-09-2004 11:14 AM:
mad_angler,
http://www.oriondogsupply.com
Pouch and tubing for around $30.00.
Posted by mad_angler on 06-09-2004 12:12 PM:
How about
some basic dimensions?
How much tubing do I need?
How big is the square on the top?
How long are the legs?
Posted by MindTrikCallr on 06-09-2004 12:21 PM:
You could
get some dimensions by using the size of the pouch as a scale....I think he gave
those dimensions above...print out a pic and use a mm ruler and the pouch to get
the other measurements...
Posted by KwickLabs on 06-09-2004 01:04 PM:
OK, I
need to say this. Go back and read the whole thread, then ask a new question.
Posted by BLKLAB on 06-10-2004 10:57 PM:
Well DMAN
I guess I have a couple more days to wait. Was the electronics simple to hook
up. I am planning on running mine to a 12 volt servo. with a 6 volt battery.
Posted by KwickLabs on 06-11-2004 02:03 AM:
"I am
planning on running mine to a 12 volt servo. with a 6 volt battery." Why would
you do that?
Posted by wdlfbio on 06-11-2004 02:15 AM:
Have fun
running the 6 volts to a receiver that has an operating range of 9-13 volts (if
memory serves me correctly). The 6 volts will trigger a 12v door lock actuator,
but I'm not sure you'll have enough juice to run through the receiver.
Posted by Dman on 06-11-2004 09:46 AM:
BLKLAB,
Just download the spec sheets for the transmitter and receiver.
There are wiring diagrams on them. No problem hooking it up and it works great.
Buy a 12v battery. The 6v will not power the receiver.
Posted by BLKLAB on 06-11-2004 01:10 PM:
I AM
READY TO GET THIS GOING. I JUST MUGGED THE UPS DRIVER WHEN HE CAME INTO THE
OFFICES, NOT REMOTE YET. I GUESS ILL TRY THE DHL DRIVER WHEN HE COMES IN. WHAT
KINDA DISTANCE ARE YOU GETTING OUT OF THE ANTENNA.
Posted by Dman on 06-11-2004 01:41 PM:
Haven't
tried the range thing yet. Will do that this weekend.
Posted by BLKLAB on 06-11-2004 02:55 PM:
WHERE DID
YOU GET THE BATTERY AT. THE ONES I HAVE SEEN RANGE FROM 26-40.00.
Posted by Dman on 06-11-2004 03:42 PM:
http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-b...=575&type=store
Posted by KwickLabs on 06-11-2004 05:23 PM:
Power-Sonic 12 Volt 1.2 Amp Hour
Code:PS-1212 Price: $10.75 (less for more than one)
Five batteries shipped to me in Illinois = $60 (including shipping).
http://www.ragebattery.com/Merchant...ory_Code=ps-12v
Posted by BLKLAB on 06-14-2004 07:16 PM:
I
received my electronics this afternoon. I made the mistake of ordering the
transmitter without stickers and the buttons are not covered. But I am in luck I
work for 3M and it just so happens we have film here. So I just cut a small
piece and covered the switch. I will post back on wed for the results. I have
tomorrow off and will try the toy out.
Posted by mad_angler on 06-16-2004 02:04 PM:
Can hardly wait...
I ordered
pouches and tubing from
http://www.oriondogsupply.com/
They arrived very quickly. Now I just need to make a trip to the Home Depot to
get the rest of the parts.
Hopefully, I'll have 2 functional but manual wingers by this weekend.
Posted by Zazpa on 06-21-2004 11:19 AM:
Originally posted by KwickLabs
Power-Sonic 12 Volt 1.2 Amp Hour
Code:PS-1212 Price: $10.75 (less for more than one)
Five batteries shipped to me in Illinois = $60 (including shipping).
http://www.ragebattery.com/Merchant...ory_Code=ps-12v
Are you then
using there $43 SLA charger or is there a cheaper route?
Posted by mad_angler on 06-21-2004 11:23 AM:
1 done, 1 to go
I did
build one manual winger this weekend. It works pretty well. I think I need to
adjust my tubing to get more distance but otherwise it works very well.
Total cost was about $80 for the manual winger. I almost prefer the manual
version since it is so much cheaper than the remote version and is waterproof...
Also, my real problem was that my bird boys are actually young girls. So, their
throws need a bit of work. For now, they are excited about playing with the
wingers so they are eager to help for a change.
Posted by KwickLabs on 06-21-2004 03:18 PM:
I'm using
a Class 2 Transformer/AC Adaptor as a charger.
Output: 12VDC 1A
Cut off plug (identify + and - ). Then put red & black alligator clips on the
correct wires.
Did a search. See link for under $11 plus shipping.
http://www.action-electronics.com/acadaptr.htm#12dc
Posted by wdlfbio on 06-21-2004 08:30 PM:
AC to
12VDC converter. You can pick them up from allelectronics for around $3-$5.
You'll need to cut the plug off and take a voltmeter to the wires to see which
is positive and which is negative. Then attach a spade crimp to each end to plug
to the battery.
Posted by KwickLabs on 06-21-2004 10:34 PM:
wdlfbio,
You've got this down so well, that in a few more months those businesses will be
paying you to accept their products.
Posted by wdlfbio on 06-22-2004 09:38 PM:
A
backlash to this has been an apparent absence of parts I typically have no
problems ordering!!!!
Here in a bit I will start a thread for making remote multiple dummy launchers
(2-4 launcher units) out of Retrieve-R-Trainers (wrist-breakers) and similar
electronics! I'll need to think of a cool name for these first though.
Posted by BIG DOG I on 06-23-2004 12:05 AM:
well we
are gonna put these wingers through a 20 dog 4 series work out Saturday 20 sets
of marks ranging from started/jr level through Fin/Master level
Posted by Edbuck on 06-23-2004 08:34 AM:
Here is a
remote launcher I made using two retriever-r-trainers. I'm not happy with the RC
unit I used for the remote.
My cost was about $275
http://www.refugepics.com/members/E...auncher%202.jpg
Posted by Dman on 06-28-2004 12:46 PM:
KL,
Just wanted to let you know I put my winger to the test this Saturday and it
passed with flying colors. The electronics will work at least 300yds and
everything performed flawlessly.
Thanks again to you and wldfbio for all the info.
Posted by BIG DOG I on 06-28-2004 01:43 PM:
Dman,
it worked great didn't it!!
(i kinda liked it when Taz picked up that LOOOONG mark I think she liked it too,
she hadn't been stretched out in a while)
Posted by wdlfbio on 06-28-2004 01:45 PM:
Dman,
Sweeeeet!!!!!
Encore,
I hope to have the pics, measurements, and parts list up tonight or tomorrow
night. I've been using them for a couple years and am up to version 5 or 8 by
now. I think the current model is my final design!!!! Between Kwicks Mini
(winger that is)
and Leopold's Launchers (my big dawg), I think us amateurs will be set up with
quality, and inexpensive, setups for all locations and weather.
I did build a winger based on Kwick's design, but used 3/4" copper with 1/2"
copper for the moving piece of the square opening. Works great, is light, strong
as heck, and stores easily. I think I'm in maybe $150 out the door.
As most everyone hear has done, Jim really deserves quite a bit of recognition
for providing his design to us...free of charge!
Thanks again Jim!!!!!!!
Posted by BIG DOG I on 06-28-2004 03:15 PM:
we are
going to transfer my old H style pro throw manual to a remote and possibly build
at least 3 more
Posted by KwickLabs on 06-28-2004 03:56 PM:
Well, Big
Dog made reference to using the Mini-My-Wingers this past weekend and was kind
enough to send an e-mail to say things went well. There is something to be said
about using your own personally built wingers and watching your dogs do their
thing. I'm glad many of you can feel the personal satisfaction of putting
wingers back in your truck and thinking, "Geez, I built those myself." After
reading these last few posts about how well you've done with them, this news
makes me feel good, too.
It sure is fun training alone when the dogs do well because the set-ups are
specific to their individual needs. With the wingers I have that greater
flexibility. Everyone have fun with your new toys!
Posted by Dman on 06-28-2004 08:17 PM:
BD,
I ordered 4 more batteries today and found three bow releases at Walmart for
$10.00 each. Get me a count on the # of transmitters and receivers you want me
to order for you guys over there. I would like to place an order no later than
July 12th.
I'll be camping all next week and I'll be working in Georgia beginning Tuesday
the following week. I won't be back in Texarkana until July 20th. Would like to
have the electronics here when I get back.
KL,
I plan on building 2 more launchers and putting the electronics on my Gunners
Up.
Posted by KC Steve on 06-29-2004 08:37 AM:
just a
thought and might have been covered earlier but have you thought about putting a
solar charger on the unit to charge the battery? they are light and cost about
$20 (I think). Maybe not worth the effort but then again?????!!!!!!!
Steve
Posted by wdlfbio on 06-29-2004 11:19 AM:
No need
for solar chargers. These batteries are 1.2 amp hour. I've gone several sessions
without charging, as long as I remembered to unplug the battery when not in use.
Plus, most folks would bust the solar panels up on dy 1
Posted by funnelofmallards on 07-01-2004 04:43 PM:
kwick,
built a frame for it last night and waiting on my pouch and rubber tubing from
Orion Dog Supply now. I was looking at the electronics you suggested though and
on the receiver it has an optional antenna to buy. Do i need this so it will
work out to 200-300 yard range?
Posted by Dman on 07-01-2004 05:25 PM:
funnelofmallards,
You just need the 3 meter wire antenna for under a dollar. It will work at least
300 yards
Posted by funnelofmallards on 07-01-2004 05:39 PM:
good i was
hoping i didn't need the other one that was $27 dollars. so far everything looks
good on mine. i built it a lil bigger than the others with height and length. I
used bigger PVC to. going to cement tonight and put hardware on this weekend.
hopefully it will be at least a manual winger by Saturday or Sunday.
Posted by Dman on 07-01-2004 05:44 PM:
I built
mine taller than KL did, and I used 1/2" and 1" PVC like he did. It's fully
functional and works great. We used it in training last weekend. Getting ready
to build some more now.
Good luck with yours.
Posted by BLKLAB on 07-02-2004 12:11 PM:
i UDED MY
ELECTRONICS FOR THE FIRST TIME YESTERDAY ON A CONVENTIONAL WINGER. IT WORKED
AWSOME I USED IT OUT TO 200YRDS WOW. KWICKLABS AND OTHERS THANK YOU. I AM NOW
GOING TO TRY TO BUILD A PVC WINGER. THANKS AGAIN.
Posted by Zazpa on 07-02-2004 12:18 PM:
How long
are you guys making the main arms (or is it a leg)? Why longer? Just trying to
get more distance? If you want more distance can't you just pull the bands
tighter?
Posted by mad_angler on 07-02-2004 12:25 PM:
longer launches...
I don't
know how long the legs are. But they have the same relative dimensions as
Kwick's.
My first one launched okay but not great. That was with 23" tubing (23" total
before using 2" at each end to make the connection). For that one, the eye bolts
for the rings were about 1/2 way down the legs.
So, I soup’d up the second launcher. It works great!
- tubing ~19" total
- eye bolts nearly at base of unit.
The Orion dog Supply site has a document about tubing. It recommends a 4:1 ratio
for the tubing. That is about what my second launcher has. It will easy launch a
dead-fowl duck about 30 yards.
Posted by Dman on 07-02-2004 12:55 PM:
Zazpa,
I'm putting two sets of eye bolts on the legs so I can have a long throw and a
short throw. That's why I made the legs a little longer.
Poted by
funnelofmallards on 07-05-2004 11:14 PM:
I made
mine longer because simply i really didn't know how long or how big to make
anything. what do you secure the tubing with around the eyebolts and the
pouch?????? Zip ties??????
Posted by KwickLabs on 07-06-2004 12:16 AM:
One end
of the band has a ring which just fits over the eyebolt the other thought he
eyelet on the pouch, and most use two zip ties. (Again check the bottom of the
first page of my Website for close up pictures, and note the eyebolts have since
been moved much nearer to the bottom.) I purposely use the eyebolt/ring idea
because with hooks you will have eight places for something to snag.
I do have two sets of eyebolts (now) on each launcher for different length
throws. Also, most of you probably don't have the space limitations I do with a
Sonoma. Mine were designed around the size of the truck. Taller will give you
more throw. The nice thing is if I ever can talk my wife into the need for a
bigger truck, I can modify all four in less than an hour. However, this size is
very easy to carry.
There are more posts with other ideas to
follow on the Refuge Thread.........
Note: Here's all the material links
(in one place from the text)
FMR 212-E, FMT 304 and ANTW (or the antenna upgrade) from Elsema - electronics
link
http://www.multicode.com.au/index.html
(includes prices)
Orion Dog Supply has good parts to help out also.
Get your other launcher parts at
www.allelectronics.com
Another source for parts is
www.meci.com
I think this is the site
BLKLAB is talking about
http://www.applied-wireless.com/
http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-b...=575&type=store
Power-Sonic 12 Volt 1.2
Amp Hour
Code:PS-1212 Price: $10.75 (less for more than one)
Five batteries shipped to me in Illinois = $60 (including shipping).
http://www.ragebattery.com/Merchant...ory_Code=ps-12v
Charging batteries -
using a Class 2 Transformer/AC Adaptor as a charger.
Output: 12VDC 1A
Cut off plug (identify + and - ). Then put red & black alligator clips on the
correct wires.
Did a search. See link for under $11 plus shipping.
http://www.action-electronics.com/acadaptr.htm#12dc
http://www.refugepics.com/members/E...auncher%202.jpg
More "Stuff" from various posters
Kwicklabs: One end of the band has a ring which just fits over the eyebolt the
other through he eyelet on the pouch, and most use two zip ties. (Again check
the bottom of the first page of my Website for close up pictures, and note the
eyebolts have since been moved much nearer to the bottom.) I purposely use the
eyebolt/ring idea because with hooks you will have eight places for something to
snag.
Poster: I do have two sets of eyebolts (now) on each launcher for different
length throws. Also, most of you probably don't have the space limitations I do
with a Sonoma. Mine were designed around the size of the truck. Taller will give
you more throw. However, this size is very easy to carry.
$190 US What?
