Three different “glues” are to be tested……Rustoleum flat black, Donjer
flocking paint/glue and Aero flocking paint/glue. Aero is water based
(easier cleanup & no fumes). I bought flocking from Aero & Donjer….both are
nylon.
I have a dozen GHG OS Coots, 6 GHG OS
Goldeneyes, 6 GHG OS Canvasbacks,
6 GHG OS Redheads and 12 OS Cabela’s Real Image Bluebills. I will end up
doing the black on all of these decoys and maybe the heads of the “Reds &
“Cans”. I
have about ten months.
edit: Six old G&H Super Magnum Canvasbacks were added later.
note: The quality and durability of flocked decoys is a function of the
initial surface.
To start with, a plastic lined
flocking box was constructed from which any flock not sticking can be
recovered. All the decoys are new out of the box. Each was given three coats
of Krylon clear acrylic
flat matte 1311.
Internet photos of coots reveal many different variations from all black to
a very
dark grey to purplish section which blends into larger areas of black. The
first experiment will be conducted on five coots. These
five will be testing the three paints/glues and two sources of nylon
flocking. A grey flock will be used on only one to look at blending colors. I’m going to test for
the correct shade of grey using the bottom of an old decoy. Using black
“glue” under the grey flock is supposed to make it appear darker.
If the
shade (of grey) is not acceptable, I will mix some black flock
with grey to darken it.
note: While flocking, I'm using a dust mask and glasses. The
fine nylon
flock floats
free and far from the target. There is no need to flock
your lungs.
Step # 1 – make flocking box finished
√
Step # 2 - check for correct shade of grey using black Rustoleum on the
under
surface of used mallard decoy, mix black flock with grey (if
necessary)
observations & data:
1) the mallard decoy (section of bottom ) with no preparation except
brushing
a section of the bottom was coated with Rustoleum (flat back)
2) this section was immediately flocked with Donjer charcoal grey nylon
3) two hours later the flocked section and an addition area were
painted with
more Rustoleum (should have knocked off the excess flocking as it
rolled
up in the fresh paint, this soon was displaced by using the paint
brush and
a smooth 2nd coat cover the original flocking and
produced a fresh area to
flock, this gives a two coat flocking contrasted with a single
4) 24 hours later the single & double flocking coats could not be
scratched
with a wooden dowel scraped across the surface several times,
there’s not
a trace of any marks…..that’s zero
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Step #3 - double coat of Rustoleum with Donjer grey/black flock
√
1st decoy
single coat Donjer "glue" with Donjer black flock √
2nd decoy
single coat Aero "glue" with Aero black flock
√
3rd decoy
double coat Rustoleum with Aero black flock
√
4th decoy
double coat Rustoleum with Donjer black flock
√
5th decoy
plastic lined flocking box (reclaiming unused flock)
note: two tiered, pedestal stand
This is the improved model. Cut the card board box so that it is totally
flat. Cover the
inside portion of this single, flat section with plastic. Using
two-
sided clear plastic tape,
attach the plastic. Tape the total length of the
edges
to the box and reassembled. A few
of the "slots" in the lids have to
cut, but
it is simple to reseal the edges inside after the
box is put back together.
The
top flap can be tilted back with tape to stay tilted. This
creates a large
opening.
The flock is kept inside the box and drops to the bottom. For
$3.50
(Walmart), an auto dust pan/whisk broom "comb" makes for the ideal flock remover.
note: It best to do this in area where the floor is easy to sweep.
 Flocking sticks and looks better when applied perpendicularly with the "hand puffer" (Mini-flocker). The PVC pedestals slip over nails and are different lengths. The decoy can be rotated and tilted to achieve the best angles. tip from Donjer.......Place a 3" lip in front and vertically (on the bottom edge). This will prevent flock from being blown out by escaping air currents. The above photo did not have that "lip" installed....yet. It makes a huge difference. |
observations & data
1) Rustoleum double coats are thicker, tougher and provide a
chance to cover first coat
blemishes….which seem difficult to totally avoid
2) The Donjer black flock was not as black as the Aero black
note: the black Donjer flock reclaimed from the
flocking box was placed back in
the 3 oz bag & the
reclaimed charcoal grey (Donjer) was placed back in the
3
oz
bag of grey
note: later when the "pure" black Donjur coating was
applied, it was
not as black
as the Aero….therefore, I used a different bag of Donjer black flock to see if
the very
small amount of grey
contamination might be the cause. It was.
The fresh bag of Donjer is blacker than the one that probably has a small
amount of charcoal grey in it
note: do all black first and “the rest” (grey, red,
etc.) later and in clean, freshly
relined flocking boxes
to avoid contamination
3) on the first decoy I used a sponge paint brush for larger areas
and bristle
the edges,
went on
easy and flocking box worked great, but the sponge
brush doesn't carry as
much paint (more work)
note: allowed to dry for 24 hrs and completed
the other side
note: decided waiting that long for second
coat is unnecessary
4) did not mask anything off, eyes are more difficult, needed finer
brush
note: will mask off white bill…..too often a
splash of black paint
5) doing the whole coot with the very thick Donjer or Aero glue takes
too much time,
the glue
in some areas doesn’t gather as much flock because it becomes skimmed
(not apparent) and less “tacky” plus I felt rushed
6) Rustoleum is thinner and easier to keep “wet” & the second coat
really finishes off
the total flock coating look nicely
7) by the fourth decoy, the amount of time to coat has decreased &
the ease of applying
Rustoleum (over the other two) makes it a winner (so
far), add to that the second coat
only takes about 30 minutes max and
covers first coat
blemishes (which I have not
been able to avoid on any decoy yet), the “hand
puffer” may be the weak link (air
assisted better?)
8) from what I can gather all three paints/glues are alkyds, two are
oil based and one
is water based (emulsion)……when dry they are essentially
the same “stuff”.
However, I think the water based emulsion may need a much longer curing
time.
All the water needs to migrate out of the mixture…..oil based
solvents “leave”
quicker. The thicker glues are designed to “grab” more flocking
initially. Donjer
and Aero black paint/glues "look" and feel identical
when applying. The only
difference is the solvent odor of the Donjer.
However, the two coated Rustoleum
seems to compensate for many
issues…..easier painting with a "wetter" coating,
when finished (two coats), the
decoy has more total flock over a harder, similar
undercoat with zero
blemishes and no gaps.
9) all black flocked coots look fine
for a hunting rig (easier, too)
This initial conclusion for choosing Rustoleum is supported by other experimenters.
Therefore, I will probably use the Rustoleum method with Donjer nylon flock
(company is closer), but the
final choice will depend on the durability testing of the
five decoys.
In two weeks, the five flocked coots (different methods and materials)
will be tested
in the elements for durability……freezing/thawing, rained on and jammed wet in a
6 slot decoy bag which will be bounced around (a
lot).
02/08/2010
Update: 02/16/2010
Finished the coots....double
coated Rustoleum & black flocking from Donjer.
obvious the double coat Rustoleum was far better looking. The decoys have
no blemishes and required no additional touchups. The one coat method with
Rustoleum, Aero or Donjur "glue/paints" is not up to my standards....too many
blemishes and impossible to get close to a perfect coating (on the plastics).
The hand held "flock puffer" seems to be the limiting factor. There was one
suggestion about using the air assisted flocking device which is apparently
very effective (and more expensive & need compressor).
Two pieces of information about the best method caused me to rethink taking
time to test the durability. An experienced decoy carver states his Rustoleum
double coat method is superior and sells many decoys using this method.
That was good enough for me. Another double coat Rustoleum user hunts
way more than I do every year and has studied the various effects of weather
and wear & tear during actual use. That was strike two for me. And lastly, my
own work on comparing the three application techniques has the Rustoleum
(double coat method) producing a much better looking flocked decoy.
Note: this is using the "hand puffer"....Mini-Flocker.
Rustoleum double flocked coot |
Finished double Rustoleum coats of black flocking the back of eight drake
bluebills......heads and breast areas are next. The four bluebill hens will have
the same areas covered with brown flocking.
Had some issues making the first coat of Rustoleum stick when the flocking
was applied. The air seemed to push the flock aside as it absorbed the paint.
This left a few small areas not covered (no paint or flock). Touching up these
areas worked, but it was a time consuming "cobble job". The second set of
four drake bluebills were first given a primer coat of Rustoleum which was
allowed to dry. With this "primer coat", the two coat process went extremely
well with no blemishes on either the first or second coat. The paint adhered
well and the double flocking looks "super".
note: the bluebills are Cabela's Real Image OS bluebills while the coots
and other decoys are Avery (different manufacturer ??), have
decided to give extra prime coat to all decoys before flocking
2 Rustoleum double black flocked bluebills
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The four female bluebills have the tail area double coated with brown flock.
The head and breast areas have the "primer" coat of black Rustoleum applied.
The black "paint" does not seem to create any issues with the brown flock.
note: the simple pedestal setup for flocking is very stable and effective
note: Rustoleum has a new product - flat brown (ordered, but not in)
Update: 02/24/2010
Drove to Donjer and bought more nylon flocking.....black, bright red, cardinal
red, cream and brown (not as dark as feather brown).
Update: 02/25/2010
I finished the Rustoleum primer coat on 6 Avery OS goldeneyes decoys.
After they were dry six were given another coat of Rustoleum on the back
area and black flocking was applied immediately. It takes too much time to
paint the heads and the back area since the surface starts to skim over. It
has to be very "wet" for the proper effect. The heads will be done after all
the backs have had their third coat of Rustoleum with the second layer of
black flock. It is a good thing it's cold with snow on the ground.....nothing
much else to do. 30 decoys almost finished with another 12 left to do.
| Update: 03/9/2010 The goldeneyes are finished. The redheads and canvasbacks are almost. My very old set of G & H Super Magnum Canvasbacks (out of the shed) became a new project. The flocking makes them really "pop" (3 drakes & 3 hens). "blending flocking colors produced this redhead"
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Mar 10th made "practice board" to try and learn a way to blend in the black shading on a "can" head note: put two layers of "can" flocking on a flat piece of plywood and the G & H Super Magnums now have their first coat of flocking (left click on thumbnails)
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Painting tip: When I first started the Rustoleum process, my painting techniques required some practice and patience. The tight areas on some of the decoys were difficult to "stay in the lines". The decoy eyes and edges were particularly difficult for me. It improved with practice. However, I was kind of dreading the second coat of Rustoleum over the first layer of flock. I was thinking that keeping clean edges (especially around the beak and eyes) was not going to be pleasant. I was wrong. If paint is "loaded" on the brush, not only does the first coat of flock absorb much of the paint, but by layering paint within an eighth-of-an-inch to any edge, flock "wicks" paint right up to the border and "soaks" it. Done properly (enough paint close to the edge), the flock "pulls paint" and there was hardly any reason to do much trim. I never had to use a fine brush around the eyes and the flock along the edges was always plenty "wet enough" to take on the second coat of flock. By painting around those areas first (before painting the large areas), there was time for the "fill in" to take place. On a side note, I found the expensive paint brushes (1") did not work as well as the cheapest $0.89 brushes Menards had (especially when applying the second coat). The course fibered "cheapies" hold more paint and flock can "suck it up" faster. |
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Update: 3/16/2010: The first two heads of the Avery OS and G&H Super Magnum Canvasbacks have been shaded black. I used the cheap brush & "unloaded" it on newspaper. This brush shaded the black areas on the heads. The final decoy was achieved by continually working the shading and spreading in the desired areas with by less color toward the borders. The second decoy seemed to be better than the first. 
Avery OS and G&H Super Magnum Canvasbacks
Update: 3/21/2010 The recent
cold weather and snow fall provided some downtime from dog |
| update:
4/1/2010 The first batch of goose decoys are ready to flock. This will
be a "touch-up and tail" flocking "exercise". April shower days will provide the time (no dog training in the rain). "Touch-up 'n Tails" - Avery Pro-Grade, FFD Lessers, OS Shells plus Dakota field & floaters
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