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Diver
Decoy Flocking Experiment
Three different “glues” are to be tested……Rustoleum flat black, Donjer
flocking paint/glue and Aero flocking paint/glue. Aero is water based
(easier cleanup & no fumes). I bought flocking from Aero & Donjer….both are
nylon.
I have a dozen GHG OS Coots, 6 GHG OS
Goldeneyes, 6 GHG OS Canvasbacks,
6 GHG OS Redheads and 12 OS Cabela’s Real Image Bluebills. I will end up
doing the black on all of these decoys and maybe the heads of the “Reds &
“Cans”. I
have about ten months.
note: The quality and durability of flocked decoys is a function of the
initial surface.
To start with, a plastic lined
flocking box was constructed from which any flock not sticking will be
recovered. All the decoys are new out of the box. Each was given three coats
of Krylon clear acrylic
flat matte 1311.
Internet photos of coots reveal many different variations from all black to
a very
dark grey to purplish section which blends into larger areas of black. The
first experiment will be conducted on five coots. These
five will be testing the three paints/glues and two sources of nylon
flocking. A grey flock will be used on only one to look at blending colors. I’m going to test for
the correct shade of grey using the bottom of an old decoy. Using black
“glue” under the grey flock is supposed to make it appear darker.
If the
shade (of grey) is not acceptable, I will mix some black flock
with grey to darken it.
note: While flocking, I'm using a dust mask and glasses. The
fine nylon
flock floats
free and far from the target. There is no need to flock
your lungs.
Step # 1 – make flocking box finished
√
Step # 2 - check for correct shade of grey using black Rustoleum on the
under
surface of used mallard decoy, mix black flock with grey (if
necessary)
observations & data:
1) the mallard decoy (section of bottom ) with no preparation except
brushing
a section of the bottom was coated with Rustoleum (flat back)
2) this section was immediately flocked with Donjer charcoal grey nylon
3) two hours later the flocked section and an addition area were
painted with
more Rustoleum (should have knocked off the excess flocking as it
rolled
up in the fresh paint, this soon was displaced by using the paint
brush and
a smooth 2nd coat cover the original flocking and
produced a fresh area to
flock, this gives a two coat flocking contrasted with a single
4) 24 hours later the single & double flocking coats could not be
scratched
with a wooden dowel scraped across the surface several times,
there’s not
a trace of any marks…..that’s zero

left coot (1st) -
double coat
(Rustoleum & Donjer flocking)
black & grey |
three coots
(middle=original plastic) |
right coot (2nd) - one coat
(Donjer glue & Donjer flocking)
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Step #3 - double coat of Rustoleum with Donjer grey/black flock
√
1st decoy
single coat Donjer "glue" with Donjer black flock √
2nd decoy
single coat Aero "glue" with Aero black flock
√
3rd decoy
double coat Rustoleum with Aero black flock
√
4th decoy
double coat Rustoleum with Donjer black flock
√
5th decoy
plastic lined flocking box (reclaiming unused flock)
note: two tiered, pedestal stand
This is the improved model. Cut the card board box so that it is totally
flat. Cover the
inside portion of this single, flat section with plastic. Using
two-
sided clear plastic tape,
attach the plastic. Tape the total length of the
edges
to the box and reassembled. A few
of the "slots" in the lids have to
cut, but
it is simple to reseal the edges inside after the
box is put back together.
The
top flap can be tilted back with tape to stay tilted. This
creates a large
opening.
The flock is kept inside the box and drops to the bottom. For
$3.50
(Walmart), an auto dust pan/whisk broom "comb" makes for the ideal flock remover.
note: It best to do this in area where the floor is easy to sweep.

Flocking sticks and looks better when applied
perpendicularly with the
"hand
puffer"
(Mini-flocker). The PVC pedestals slip over nails and are
different
lengths. The decoy can be rotated and tilted to achieve the best angles.
tip from Donjer.......Place a 3" lip in front and vertically (on the
bottom edge). This
will prevent flock from being blown out by escaping air currents.
The above photo did not have that "lip" installed....yet. It makes a
huge difference. |
observations & data
1) Rustoleum double coats are thicker, tougher and provide a
chance to cover first coat
blemishes….which seem difficult to totally avoid
2) The Donjer black flock was not as black as the Aero black
note: the black Donjer flock reclaimed from the
flocking box was placed back in
the 3 oz bag & the
reclaimed charcoal grey (Donjer) was placed back in the
3
oz
bag of grey
note: later when the "pure" black Donjur coating was
applied, it was
not as black
as the Aero….therefore, I used a different bag of Donjer black flock to see if
the very
small amount of grey
contamination might be the cause. It was.
The fresh bag of Donjer is blacker than the one that probably has a small
amount of charcoal grey in it
note: do all black first and “the rest” (grey, red,
etc.) later and in clean, freshly
relined flocking boxes
to avoid contamination
3) on the first decoy I used a sponge paint brush for larger areas
and bristle
the edges,
went on
easy and flocking box worked great, but the sponge
brush doesn't carry as
much paint (more work)
note: allowed to dry for 24 hrs and completed
the other side
note: decided waiting that long for second
coat is unnecessary
4) did not mask anything off, eyes are more difficult, needed finer
brush
note: will mask off white bill…..too often a
splash of black paint
5) doing the whole coot with the very thick Donjer or Aero glue takes
too much time,
the glue
in some areas doesn’t gather as much flock because it becomes skimmed
(not apparent) and less “tacky” plus I felt rushed
6) Rustoleum is thinner and easier to keep “wet” & the second coat
really finishes off
the total flock coating look nicely
7) by the fourth decoy, the amount of time to coat has decreased &
the ease of applying
Rustoleum (over the other two) makes it a winner (so
far), add to that the second coat
only takes about 30 minutes max and
covers first coat
blemishes (which I have not
been able to avoid on any decoy yet), the “hand
puffer” may be the weak link (air
assisted better?)
8) from what I can gather all three paints/glues are alkyds, two are
oil based and one
is water based (emulsion)……when dry they are essentially
the same “stuff”.
However, I think the water based emulsion may need a much longer curing
time.
All the water needs to migrate out of the mixture…..oil based
solvents “leave”
quicker. The thicker glues are designed to “grab” more flocking
initially. Donjer
and Aero black paint/glues "look" and feel identical
when applying. The only
difference is the solvent odor of the Donjer.
However, the two coated Rustoleum
seems to compensate for many
issues…..easier painting with a "wetter" coating,
when finished (two coats), the
decoy has more total flock over a harder, similar
undercoat with zero
blemishes and no gaps.
9) all black flocked coots look fine
for a hunting rig (easier, too)
This initial conclusion for choosing Rustoleum is supported by other experimenters.
Therefore, I will probably use the Rustoleum method with Donjer nylon flock
(company is closer), but the
final choice will depend on the durability testing of the
five decoys.
In two weeks, the five flocked coots (different methods and materials)
will be tested
in the elements for durability……freezing/thawing, rained on and jammed wet in a
6 slot decoy bag which will be bounced around (a
lot).
02/08/2010
Update: 02/16/2010
Finished the coots....double
coated Rustoleum & black flocking from Donjer.
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